73 - Istanbul - Still the Worlds Crossroads
2023 No 73
They passed through the Phrygian and Galatian region, having been forbidden by the Holy Spirit to speak the word in Asia; and after they came to Mysia, they were trying to go into Bithynia, and the Spirit of Jesus did not permit them; and passing by Mysia, they came down to Troas. A vision appeared to Paul in the night: a man of Macedonia was standing and appealing to him, and saying, “Come over to Macedonia and help us.”
—Acts 16:6-9
Introduction
In the days of the Apostle Paul, Macedonia was a key province for Rome. The region was the front line for protecting the Aegean region, including much of Greece. The Via Egnatia was a primary Roman road that began in Byzantium (Modern Istanbul) and granted access to Italy. On this road, one would find the Greek cities of Phillipi and Thessaloniki. Anyone who sought to transition from the East to the West by land had to follow this route. One might say that it was the Eastern Mediterranean Route of the early church.
One can only speculate why the Spirit of Jesus would not allow Paul to pass through Bithynia to reach Macedonia. At that time, the region was sparsely populated and likely less strategic. How the times would change. During the reign of Constantinople, Byzantium would become the capital of the Roman empire and bear his name. As the Roman Empire collapsed in the fifth century, it would become the capital of the Byzantine Empire for the next 900 years. During that time, it was the largest and most prosperous city in Europe. The Hagia Sophia was completed in 537 AD and served as the seat of power for all of Eastern Orthodoxy.
Because of its location, Constantinople was continuously viewed as the world’s crossroads. All land trade between the East and the West had to pass through this one point on the Bosphorus Strait. In the 4th to 5th centuries, the city’s population may have exceeded half a million. It was the world’s largest city until the 12th century and Europe’s largest city until 1750. The culture was extraordinarily diverse, hosting merchants, religious leaders, scholars, and political leaders worldwide. Much of the history of the ancient and modern world evolved around this one geographical point. It is no wonder God is still moving people through this region… and through this city.
Today, the metro population of Istanbul sits at almost 16 million people. Turkish is the official language, but sources report that some 70 other known languages are recognized among the citizens and immigrants.1 Because so many pass through the city on tourist visas, the true diversity is nearly impossible to determine. Istanbul Airport serves over 110 international locations and processed almost 65 million passengers in 2022.2 If the tourist bureau had its way, every one of those passengers would spend time in Istanbul. As it turns out, 51 million did visit Turkey... and over a third passed through Istanbul.3
Istanbul is a city of neighborhoods. Each one hosts a unique ethnic flavor. Their diversity extends beyond just ethnicity. Districts and communities reflect the cultural, ethnic, and socio-economic makeup of their residents.4 Such helps to understand why students are concentrated in one area, merchants in another, and illegal immigrants in yet another. All of these regions are highly transitory. In 2014, only 15% of the city's residents were originally from Istanbul. Despite a stagnant birth rate, the city is rapidly growing by over 200,000 annually. Most of that growth is by immigrant movements.
To date, we have given considerable attention to the historical context of Turkey. It is not difficult to understand how and why over a million migrants could pass through the region in 2015 on their way to Europe. It also sets the stage for understanding how sub-Saharan migrants can so easily arrive in the city and can so effectively fade into the background. The following is just one of many stories that could be told.
A Man from Côte d’Ivoire Named Kwame
Kwame was born in Abidjan. His parents are teachers. His mother teaches at a university, and his father is the principal of a lycée (high school). While not wealthy, they are a part of a growing middle-class African society. Kwame was a young man who had opportunities but, struggled as a teenager. His parents expected him to do well with his studies, yet he lacked the discipline. Kwame did enjoy learning English and became somewhat proficient. When he graduated high school, however, his test scores were not high enough to earn a scholarship at the local university. He really did not want to go to school anyway. He would rather work with his hands and desired to become an electrician. The problem was that such work in the Ivory Coast was hard to find. He worked as an apprentice for a while, but it never led to a stable job. Such made life difficult for Kwame… and for his parents.
Kwame had friends who had traveled to Turkey on student visas. He kept up with them on social media. In one of his conversations, he learned that there was construction work to be found in Istanbul and that if he could get there, he could land a job with a decent salary. It was at least an option, and at age 22, his parents were ready for him to make a life. He knew that the road would be difficult, but it offered hope. With that, he secured a tourist visa to "visit friends" in Istanbul and bought a round-trip ticket to Turkey.
Istanbul
There is a well-known support system for sub-Saharan migrants when they arrive in Istanbul. Once you land at the airport, you take a taxi to a large square in the center of town. It is called Taksim Square. For the tourists, it is a large commercial center. Surrounding the area, however, are scores of low-income apartments and clothing factories. It is home to a vast diversity of international migrants, many of whom come from Africa.
Kwame arrived at Istanbul Airport (Istanbul Havalimani) on a midnight flight. This airport is an immense 19,000-acre facility that was partially completed in 2018. When fully operational, it will be able to handle 200 million passengers per year. It is one of the busiest airports in Europe and seventh in ranking in the world. It is this high volume of passengers that helps to facilitate sub-Saharan entries. Short of being the subject of a random check, most can pass through customs very quickly.
Once he picked up his luggage, finding a taxi was easy. Walking towards the taxi stand, he was an easy mark. African taxi drivers wait at the airport for young men just like Kwame. One approached him and asked if he needed a ride. He didn’t even have to tell them where to go… his driver knew to take him to Taksim Square. In fact, the driver took him directly to a hotel next to the square. He knew that there would be people there who could help him.
As we get into his story, let me emphasize that all the people who would help Kwame were good people. They were migrants, just like Kwame, who were just several years deeper into their journey. Each could tell a story of how they arrived, what they did, and how they survived. Their shared experiences help to create a community that looks after its own. They may come from different places, but they are all African.
Where to Live
The taxi driver took Kwame to a hotel. At least, that is what the sign said. In reality, it was a boarding house run by a Nigerian woman named Abigail. Here, he was glad that he had worked so hard on his English. This would prove to be an asset. She gave him a bed for the night and explained the rules the following day.
When migrants arrive in Istanbul, people like Abigail are there to help. In her building, migrants share a room with up to five others. They are grouped by language and, if possible, by country of origin. These rooms cost roughly five dollars per night. Most migrants, upon arrival, can pay for this. However, their money runs out quickly, and after a month or two they must find other accommodations. But for now, having a bed each night is a blessing.
Turkish Textile Factories 6
Where to Work
Abigail explained to Kwame that he needed to find a job quickly. Managing his money would be his greatest challenge in this new environment. Everything was more expensive than in Abidjan. And he had to be careful not to become a victim. There were undoubtedly thieves, and people who would try to scam him were abundant. After sharing his experience as an electrician, she told him she might be able to help. In the meantime, there was a job available at one of the local garment factories.
The factory really was not a factory. It was the entire second floor of a five-story multi-purpose building just down the street. The ground level was storefronts. There was a small grocery, a hardware shop, and clothing distributors. The upper floors were apartments. Those could be rented for around $300 USD per month.7 It was common for four men to share one of these small units. All of the non-structural walls had been removed on the second floor, and the space was filled with storage and sewing machines. The machines were used by men, women, and even young teenagers almost 24 hours daily. Kwame went to work for a salary of seven dollars per day. That is less than half the minimum wage for legal workers. After he paid for his room, it only left a little for utilities or food.
Daily Life
It didn't take long for Kwame's tourist visa to expire. At that point, he transitioned from being a legal visitor to being an illegal immigrant. He had heard stories of migrants who had become targeted by the government, harassed by the police, and some had even been imprisoned. Abigail's advice was that he must blend into the background. Until he learned the system, it was vital that he not go out on the streets unless absolutely necessary and to avoid those who were not black. Drug dealers were everywhere, and their suppliers were typically not African. As such, anytime the police saw an African with a white man, they just assumed that they were drug dealers. To avoid attracting attention, he was to stay away from anyone not of his people… even the Turks.
Kwame settled into his new life in Istanbul. It was not easy. Even though he stayed in contact with his family back in Abidjan, losing that community was hard. His friends who had gone to university in Turkey were hesitant to meet with him. Now that he was illegal, any contact could jeopardize their visa status. He made a few friends at work, but most of his time was spent with his roommates.
They were a good bunch of guys, much like himself. Two were from Senegal, and one was from Cameroon. They all spoke French, and he was helping them to learn English. Each had their own story, each had their own dreams, and each had their own challenges. They would become close over the years, almost like a family. They learned to manage things, like winter, together. None of them had seen snow before, and the cold was unbearable. They could not afford to heat the apartment adequately, so they spent their days under blankets and drinking hot tea.
As time progressed, Kwame was able to move from the sewing line to maintenance in the factory. There were always things to be repaired, and the need for an electrician was always present. His prior experience helped him to land the job, and he learned much along the way. He even got a small raise, which made life a bit easier. In the end, however, it was barely a life… and he was far from home.
A Brighter Future?
When I met Kwame, he had been in Turkey for five years. He was a seasoned migrant and often found himself back at Abigail's boarding house. Like her, he could earn a little commission if he helped a migrant find a place to stay or a job. He enjoyed helping his African brothers, but his opinion of migration had changed over the years. He realized that had he taken the same money/effort and invested it into being an electrician back in Abidjan, he would be much better off. And… he would be close to his family. He has tried to explain that to some of the new arrivals while their visas were still valid, but they won't listen. Like him, they can only see what they were told and had imagined.
Kwame could go back to the Ivory Coast. He would have to pay a hefty fine for overstaying his visa and might even spend some time in jail. Or… he could look forward to perhaps migrating to Europe. Stories abound of those who found a way into places like Germany or the Netherlands. In those places, an electrician could make a lot of money. The key would be to gain asylum status somehow. That way, he would receive government support and be paid a legal wage.
Conclusion
Kwame’s story could be repeated a thousand times, and all that would change would be the name and perhaps the color of their skin. Tens of thousands of migrants arrive in Turkey every year, praying that they will find a better life. For most, it is just another life. They melt into the background of the sprawling metropolis of Istanbul, living and working among their countrymen in some ethnocentric neighborhood. Those who are true refugees may have found a measure of security, but it is nothing like the life they left behind. Most would go back if they could. Those who came for economic reasons may survive, but many would not say it was a fair trade for their old life. Occasionally, one can find those who have done well.
If Paul were alive today, I imagine God would have sent him through the Asian region of Bithynia. It is a place where people are hungry for the gospel and desperately need a word of hope. Istanbul is like many large international cities today. Some 60% of the world’s population will soon live in these metropolises. Those reading this blog are often in that number. God did not send Paul, but He may be sending you. Could it be that the Macedonian call today is to these urban spaces? Could God be calling you to step outside your door and meet the Kwame, Farad, Ibrahim, or Aryan? I think we know the answer. My prayer is that we will be faithful to that call.
1 Ofer Tirosh, "Which Languages Are Spoken in Turkey?", Tomedes https://www.tomedes.com/translator-hub/language-spoken-in-turkey (accessed October 31, 2023).
2 "Istanbul International Airport", Unofficial Airport Guide https://istanbul-international-airport.com/ (accessed October 31, 2023). See also, Gokhan Ergocun, "Istanbul Airport Becomes One of Top 10 Busiest Airports in 2022", Anadolu Agency https://www.aa.com.tr/en/economy/istanbul-airport-becomes-one-of-top-10-busiest-airport-in-2022/2865711#:~:text=Istanbul Airport was the seventh,2020%2C according to the report. (accessed October 31, 2023).
3 Samuel Dorsi, "51 Million Tourists Visited Turkey in 2022", Tourism Review News https://www.tourism-review.com/greater-number-of-travelers-visited-turkey-news12987 (accessed October 31, 2023).
4 Ayda Eraydin and others, Dealing with Urban Diversity: The Case of Istanbul (Netherlands: University of Utrecht, 2017).
5 CC Fargoh, "Taksim Square", Wikimedia Foundation https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taksim_Square (accessed November 6, 2023).
6 These are but a few examples of the sweatshops we toured in Turkey. As one might imagine, the owners are often hesitant to allow photos. Thus these are random, representative images from the internet. Source unknown.
7 The cost of this apartment was based on our visit with Kwame back in 2020. In 2022, the inflation rate in Turkey was over 80%. For many people, their apartment rents more than doubled. As you can imagine, this has made it very difficult for the migrants. Many have had to consolidate. Instead of four to an apartment, many are now housing 8-10 men.
8 Engin Esen, "Light Shed on Lives of Africans in Istanbul", Hurriyet Daily News https://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/light-shed-on-lives-of-africans-in-istanbul-143240 (accessed November 6, 2023).